I’m used to thinking of public transportation as a well-designed system of buses, trains, and light-rail that get you where you need to go. Public transportation in Africa looks a lot different! The main component of “taking public” here are taxis, but they’re not the bright yellow sedans I’m used to. They are actually small vans (like VW buses) that seat 14-16 people and go just about everywhere around the region. These taxis can be local or long-distance taxis. Each driver owns their own vehicle, drives the same route regularly, and charges the same fare as other drivers (while also equipping their vehicle with eye-grabbing decals and ear-splitting sound systems). These taxis are a good reason why time in Africa is so flexible, as they don’t run on a set schedule, like a bus. They only leave when they’re full, which could take minutes or hours, depending on your destination and the time of day you are traveling. For this reason, some people prefer the other main component of African public transportation: hitchhiking.
Hitchhiking here is a very common practice that many people utilize to get around. Especially in Carolina, where many people cannot afford their own cars and where the only taxis take people between town and the township, hiking is essential for getting into and out of town. Each town has unofficially designated hiking pick-up spots, where people stand to signal to drivers their intended destination. There is also a complex series of hand signals to let people know where you want to go. If you need to go to Swaziland, just wave your passport. If you’re headed east, point your hand in that direction. If your car is full, tap your closed left fist with your open right palm. It’s a rather fascinating system!
Hiking in this fashion becomes more valid as a public transportation option as it is not free. People seem to have agreed on standard fares between locations, so I know that it is appropriate to give a driver R25 if they take me to Ermelo, no questions asked. This makes the whole system seem a little more legitimate.
In fact, I had a nice discussion the other day about this very topic with a driver who picked me up to travel to another town to catch a bus. We were debating the similarities and differences between African and US public transport. In many ways, I think that the African system actually makes it easier to get around. It may take more time, but the options are truly endless. Leave your front door, walk a few blocks, and raise your arm when a car approaches. If they’re not going in the right direction, wait for the next one. The system makes it possible to literally hike anywhere around the country, and because payment is expected it significantly reduces the risk of foul play (which, thanks to American cinema, is about the only thing hitchhiking is associated with these days). For people who do not own cars it provides the ultimate sense of freedom and the necessary means to travel.
Although hitchhiking isn’t recommended when other options are available, I am glad that I’ve had the opportunity to utilize this means of transport. Once you’ve done it a few times (and have also been in a car that picks up hikers) you truly begin to understand how hitchhiking fits into the African concept of community. If I pick you up today, maybe you’ll pick me up tomorrow. The entire system relies on the kindness of strangers… a true experience in having a little faith in your neighbor! I’m glad I’ve had the chance to really and truly Take A Hike!
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