Thursday, April 21, 2011

THE FLIP SIDE OF EASTER

When I was growing up, Palm Sunday was one of my favorite worship services. All of us children would gather in the back of the church and be given large palm fronds, then we would joyously march in at the beginning of the service, waving our palms with much enthusiasm and loudly singing 'Hosanna! Hosanna!' It truly felt like we were part of the crowd two thousand years ago who greeted Jesus as he rode into Jerusalem on a donkey. However, in recent years Palm Sunday has also become known as Passion Sunday. Now, in addition to reading the festive account of Jesus' arrival in Jerusalem, the entire Passion story is read, including the Last Supper, the betrayal of Judas, the trial before Pilate, the crucifixion of Jesus, and finally, his death.

What a downer! Can't we just wave our palms and shout 'Hosanna'? Do we have to hear about death, too?

Unfortunately, that attitude is exactly why Palm Sunday is now Passion Sunday. Not too many people are excited at the notion of Jesus dying on a cross... so they don't attend worship on Good Friday. They just skip all that nasty death stuff, because at the Sunday following Palm Sunday there will be trumpets and lilies and hoorah! The miracle of Jesus' resurrection!! Of course, in the northern hemisphere tempting signs of new life are everywhere- tender green shoots are bursting forth from the cold ground, buds are suddenly apparent, and how can you not believe when the days are warmer, longer? It's an exhilerating time of year!

However, in the southern hemisphere exactly the opposite thing is happening. Days are growing shorter, the wind more cold and blustery. Plants are dying, green things fading to brown. New life seems like a long ways away. The worship service that I will be celebrating this Sunday morning is an afterthought to the real event- Good Friday. Jesus becomes the most real, the most human, through his death. Everyone in my African community has experiencd death. Not many have seen miraculous resurrections. They know what death looks like, and they know it cannot be avoided. It is an integral part of their life. And they will not miss the death of their Lord.

This weekend, I challenge all of you to look beyond the lilies and the brass bands and even the Easter bunny and the brightly dyed eggs. Look beyond to Golgotha, The Skull, and see the crucified body of Jesus. Hear the mourning cries and the weeping of his loved ones. It's uncomfortable. It's awkward. But this is why we celebrate Easter... because of death.

Friday, April 15, 2011

A MOVING EXPERIENCE

Oct. 30: My host dad is elected as Bishop of ELCSA-Eastern Diocese. As the Diocese is based in Mbabane, Swaziland, a move is required for his new position. Move estimated to take place early January. We begin to pack non-essential items from the kitchen. 

Dec. 5: Discover that the move has been postponed due to lack of funds. Tentatively plan to move sometime in March. 

Jan. 18: Visit Swaziland Dept. of Home Affairs, who insist I need a full visa to volunteer in the country. Rather than go through the hassle, it is decided that I will enter Swaziland as a visitor, which means that every 30 days I must leave the country for a few nights and then re-enter. Begin to unpack and use kitchen items previously boxed up. Start thinking about the move in terms of “if” rather than “when”.

March 20: Consecration! Once the big day is finally behind us we all wonder when (or if!) the move will happen. 

March 29: Last day of school in the first quarter. I assure my coworkers at Sobhuza Primary that I will “definitely see them” when school resumes on April 11. 

March 31: Notified that we will be moving “now now”… as early as April 6! We begin packing in earnest. We also complete a mandatory inventory of all items that we are taking with us- a requirement for Customs at the border.  
  
April 5: Due to mechanical problems with the moving truck, our moving schedule has been pushed one day. Here is the plan: The truck will depart Mbabane SD at 10am on April 7, arrive at the new Dean’s home in Mayflower. They will load his belongings and drive to Carolina. We will then unload his things and load our things, cross the border, and be in our new home in time for supper!

April 7, 10am: Frantic packing continues. We box up all the food and remaining kitchen items. Expect word of moving truck whereabouts at any time.  

April 7, 3pm: Truck still has not left Swaziland. We unpack food, pots and pans, and prepare food. 

April 7, 5pm: Truck finally leaves Swaziland. 

April 7, 8:30pm: Truck has gotten lost on the way to Mayflower. Movers contact the new Dean and get accurate directions to his home. We discuss if we will be sleeping in Carolina or at the border post. 

April 7, 10pm: We have evening prayer without Bibles and almanacs as they are already packed. We talk about the story of the wedding guests who must stay awake for the arrival of the bridegroom. We are exhausted. Swaziland border closes.

April 7, 11:30pm: The moving truck arrives. We unload in the dark and wisely decide to sleep in the house in Carolina before loading morning. I sleep on a single mattress on the floor of the sitting room, surrounded by boxes. Even the movers get bread and tea before catching some sleep on extra mattresses. 

April 8, 7am: Moving Day begins (for real!) My first task is to recreate from scratch our entire moving inventory. The movers forgot their copy. 

April 8, 7:30am: Neighbors materialize to help load the truck. All are introduced to the new Dean and his family. 

April 8, 9am: Moving truck departs Carolina and heads for the border. Neighbors and friends gather for a final prayer with our family. 

April 8, 10am: We depart in two vehicles- Bishop and Ma Bishop in the car, my brother and I in the bakkie. We see our moving truck in the long queue when we get to the border. We get our passports stamped, then wait two hours for all the truck’s paperwork to be completed. 

April 8, 1:30pm: Proceed to the Swaziland side of the border. We have boxes in the bakkie and are told to wait until an official is available to search us and the moving truck at the same time. We wait over an hour. I mark thirty days off in my calendar while we’re waiting, so I know when I will need to leave the country. 

April 8, 4pm: We arrive at our new home (finally!) It is 5k north of the Swaziland capital of Mbabane, and just 2k away from the ELCSA Eastern Diocese Center. It is a nice house with terraced lawn, guest flat, and spectacular view. We are absolutely exhausted. What an experience!

I am glad to be here in Swaziland, and I look forward to seeing what surprises and lessons this new country has for me in the next few months! Most of all, I am thankful that my host family was willing to bring me along with them in this new chapter in their lives… it’s exciting for all of us!

Tuesday, April 5, 2011

TAKE A HIKE


I’m used to thinking of public transportation as a well-designed system of buses, trains, and light-rail that get you where you need to go. Public transportation in Africa looks a lot different! The main component of “taking public” here are taxis, but they’re not the bright yellow sedans I’m used to. They are actually small vans (like VW buses) that seat 14-16 people and go just about everywhere around the region. These taxis can be local or long-distance taxis. Each driver owns their own vehicle, drives the same route regularly, and charges the same fare as other drivers (while also equipping their vehicle with eye-grabbing decals and ear-splitting sound systems).  These taxis are a good reason why time in Africa is so flexible, as they don’t run on a set schedule, like a bus. They only leave when they’re full, which could take minutes or hours, depending on your destination and the time of day you are traveling.  For this reason, some people prefer the other main component of African public transportation: hitchhiking. 

Hitchhiking here is a very common practice that many people utilize to get around. Especially in Carolina, where many people cannot afford their own cars and where the only taxis take people between town and the township, hiking is essential for getting into and out of town. Each town has unofficially designated hiking pick-up spots, where people stand to signal to drivers their intended destination. There is also a complex series of hand signals to let people know where you want to go. If you need to go to Swaziland, just wave your passport. If you’re headed east, point your hand in that direction. If your car is full, tap your closed left fist with your open right palm. It’s a rather fascinating system!

Hiking in this fashion becomes more valid as a public transportation option as it is not free. People seem to have agreed on standard fares between locations, so I know that it is appropriate to give a driver R25 if they take me to Ermelo, no questions asked. This makes the whole system seem a little more legitimate.
In fact, I had a nice discussion the other day about this very topic with a driver who picked me up to travel to another town to catch a bus. We were debating the similarities and differences between African and US public transport. In many ways, I think that the African system actually makes it easier to get around. It may take more time, but the options are truly endless. Leave your front door, walk a few blocks, and raise your arm when a car approaches. If they’re not going in the right direction, wait for the next one. The system makes it possible to literally hike anywhere around the country, and because payment is expected it significantly reduces the risk of foul play (which, thanks to American cinema, is about the only thing hitchhiking is associated with these days). For people who do not own cars it provides the ultimate sense of freedom and the necessary means to travel. 

Although hitchhiking isn’t recommended when other options are available, I am glad that I’ve had the opportunity to utilize this means of transport. Once you’ve done it a few times (and have also been in a car that picks up hikers) you truly begin to understand how hitchhiking fits into the African concept of community. If I pick you up today, maybe you’ll pick me up tomorrow. The entire system relies on the kindness of strangers… a true experience in having a little faith in your neighbor!  I’m glad I’ve had the chance to really and truly Take A Hike!

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